, which now occupies the original tiki bar site.

As the name suggests, Michigan’s newest AVA sits at the top portion of the state’s “mitten.” Lakes Michigan and Huron influence this very cool climate zone.Although some growers succeed with traditional wine grapes like Riesling, most varieties grown here are cold-hardy hybrids that thrive, like Marquette, Frontenac Gris, Frontenac Blanc, and La Crescent..

Mari Vineyards Simplicissimus Sparkling Riesling 2022, Old Mission Peninsula ($38).Sean O’Keefe, son of the first person to plant a significant amount of Riesling in Michigan, studied winemaking in Geisenheim in the Rheingau, what he calls the “Hogwarts of Riesling.” Any Riesling that he touches seems to shine, including this stunning bubbly variation.Pineapple, delicious golden apple, yellow plum, and floral notes perfume this bottle.

It can make you wonder why sparkling Riesling isn’t in every wine shop.. Brengman Bros Riesling Trocken, Crain Hill Vineyard, Leelanau Peninsula ($27).Michigan wineries are moving beyond traditional stainless-steel fermented white wines made using commercial yeasts.

Owner/winemaker Robert Brengman works alongside the enterprising young Ryan Tompke, who ferments nearly all their wines with native yeasts.

Made in concrete tanks, this tense, textural bottle of dry Riesling has a complex structure, no hard edges, and deeply mineral notes alongside comice pear, white flours, and a touch of Rainier cherry.. Big Little Wines Driftwood Riesling 2023, Leelanau Peninsula ($23).His third course, an exceptional riff on oxtail Milanese, likely sealed his win.

To make it Epps braised the oxtails, picked the tender meat from the bone, sauced it, and formed it into the shape of the traditional circular Milanese cut of ossobucco.He served the delicate, sticky oxtails over curry-spiced Carolina rice grits, conjuring flavors of West Africa, the Caribbean, and the American South while also paying homage to Milan..

In my eight years of guest judging on., I’ve tasted many exceptional dishes, including Melissa King’s plum sauce-lacquered quail and Buddha Lo’s blue lobster with squash and curry bisque.